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Essential DIY Net Needlework Glossary: Key Sewing Terms Explained

Stitching: A technique sewing one stitch length backward on the front side and two lengths forward on the reverse, forming a solid seam on both sides.

Bar bar: A short thread reinforcement applied at stress points for added durability.

Baste: Sew with long, loose stitches to temporarily hold fabric pieces in place.

Partiality: A line at a 45-degree angle to the grain, used in garment cutting for smoother fit.

Boxing: The long horizontal fabric strip connecting the top and bottom of a seat cushion.

Bucaram: A rigid, open-weave fabric primarily used for interfacing.

Clean finish: Sew 1/4" from the edge and press to the wrong side; stitch down if the raw edge remains exposed.

Facilitate: Distribute extra fabric evenly to fit one piece smoothly over another without puckers or creases.

Border Stitch: A row of stitching along the edge of a garment, typically 1/8" or less from the edge.

Facing: A fabric piece used to reinforce or finish edges, often in seams.

Fashion fabric: The primary outer fabric of a garment.

Finger press: Open seam allowances using your thumbnail for a precise crease.

Flat folded seam: A durable seam finish commonly seen on jeans.

French seam: A neat, strong seam enclosed on both sides to hide raw edges completely.

Fusible fabric: Adhesive-coated material activated by a hot iron for easy bonding.

Gather: Pull fabric along a seam line to create controlled fullness and puckers.

Give: The degree of elasticity or stretch in a fabric.

Grade: Trim seam allowances to varying widths to reduce bulk in finished seams.

Grain: The direction of the threads running through a woven fabric.

Hand: The tactile feel or drape of a fabric, such as the softness of silk or leather.

Interface: An added fabric layer providing shape and support in garment details.

Line spacing: Sew a lining layer between the fashion fabric and main lining.

Miter: A diagonal fold at corners for clean edge finishes.

Nap: The fuzzy surface of a fabric; napped fabrics shade differently when viewed from various angles.

Stack: A surface layer of fine, short, fuzzy fibers.

Rolled hem: Fold the raw edge under 1/8 to 1/4" twice and stitch close to the fold.

Sewing allowed: The fabric area between the stitching line and cut edge.

Own fabric: The main fabric used to construct a garment.

Selvedge: The finished lengthwise edge of woven or knit fabric to prevent fraying.

Stay stitch: Straight stitching to stabilize fabric and ensure pieces fit together properly.

Stitch in the trench: Press seam allowances aside and stitch close to the seam line from the right side.

Turn: (see bar bar)

Topstitch: Stitch on the garment's exterior near a seam for definition and strength.

Plume: A dimple or fabric buildup where a button presses into quilted material.

Low level: (see stitch in the trench)